HOWTO: Making your Redblock go fast :)
Making Redblocks go fast:
My goal was to get as much out of a B230 redblock as it's maintainable, so that the engine is still usable as a daily driver and will be fine for 100Tkm and more.
We begin with the so called Stage0, everybody knows what this means:
Check your car and repair/maintain everything which seems not to be ok and in good working condition!
Level1:
This is the first stage which generates more power. Have a look for a 200 cell metal catalytic converter. There are a few on the market with E-control stamp, which you can drive without having trouble with your local authority. You can combine it with a sport flow exhaust system e.g. the BSR-System which gives you a lower back pressure, both together gives you 15HP over stock.
Level2:
Increase the boost. There are several sytems on the market, which will help you to increase boost: The most popular sytem in europe is the original Turbo-Plus KIT from Volvo. This Kit increases boost up to 0.9bar if the engine runs under WOT and revs more than 3850rpm. This Kit has a simple build-in security feature: if the engine knocks, the kit lowers the boost to stock values. There are other systems on the market like the Saab APC-System, several Dawes-Devices or the SeBCON-Box which is developed by myself. Increase the boost to 0.9bar gives you 25HP over stock.
Level3:
Have a look for good tuning chip for your LH2.4 system. I have successful tested the chips from Fredrik Persson, they work excellent in all kind of modified B230FT's. As great as the power output, as great is the drivability and economy. If you don't use the power, the car runs smoother then the stock car and has a better fuel-economy. BSR in Sweden has also very good tuning chips for the redblock. Such a tuning chip will give you ~15HP and ~20NM over stock.
Make the EZK chipable (see my E-Mods side) and use the original Volvo Chip. If you have already a so called 'Goldbox', leave it as it is. I do not prefer the chipping of the EZK with a tuning chip because this will stress the engine if you go further in the tuning stages. As a result you will gain higher combustion temperatures caused by the advanced ignition angle, which will end up with a higher knock risk, less power and higher consumption if the engine has to handle the knocking caused by the to much advanced ignition angle. You will get the best results if you use the original Volvo chip in a modified 148 EZK turbo box.
With the levels 1, 2 and 3 you will achieve 220HP and 330NM.
Level4:
Turbo Upgrade, recommendable updates are Volvos 15G or better the old T3 Turbo 42.48A/R from the B230FT with LH2.2 System, combined with +90 manifold
Level5:
Have a look for a good 'street-cam'. The prefered cam would be the Volvo A or the VX3 cam, if it should be a little bit more than search for a V cam. A friend means, "... spend less money and install a V cam, and nearly have the world by the ass. IF the step up from the T to the A is 'one step', then the step up from the A to the V is more than 'two steps'....as a comparison" - I can confirm this :)
A Level5 equipped Brick is quicker than most of the other cars on the road, especially better than all this damm good turbo-diesel's nowadays :)
Now we are going to the area which makes the real power and we leave the area in which you could be sure that the engine survives as long as a stock engine:
Level6:
There are several bigger intercooler at the market which will help to get intake temperature down, that's your main insurance against knock problems and it gains up to 10-20HP depending on the size of the new intercooler.
Level7:
Search for a 012 AMM from a 91-94 Volvo 960 and a set of 440cc/min injectors (Greentops), this modification will set the fuel-cut to a higher level.
Level8:
Convert your engine to use Bio-Ethanol E85. Since Bio-Ethanol has much better cooling abilities and also a much higher octane rating from 106octane it's pretty easy to squeeze out some extra horsepower out of the engine. If you have already done the Level7 modification, then go for a set of Siemens 60's 107961 fuel injectors with 630cc/min.
- Fuel injectors Siemens DEKA 1, also known as Siemens 55's, 587cc/min@3bar, pencil spray-pattern
- Fuel injectors Siemens 107961, also known as Siemens 60's, 630cc/min@3bar, 4-Beam spray-pattern
Level9:
Think about a water injection system. If there is no possibility to go with E85, maybe a water injection system helps to gather the extra horsepower.
Level10:
If you stay with the Bosch LH-System there is no chance to gather any more power out of this system, good engines are now between 250 and 300HP. With the above T3 it's possible that you will get entrance into the '300HP club', but this marks the limit of the 'small' T3. If you look for more power than have a look for a T3/T4 hybrid turbo with a e.g. 50trim. To go further you have to look for a better engine management like the 'Megasquirt' or 'Trijekt' Engine Management.